Roof & Gutters.
Your roof and gutters are your home’s first defense against water — and on the Front Range, against hail and snow load too. Here’s what we look at, what commonly fails, and what you can stay ahead of.
What we check during an inspection
We evaluate the roof from the safest effective vantage point, plus the attic and interior for evidence of leaks.
✓ Roof covering
We note the material and approximate age and look for missing, curling, cracked, or worn shingles and exposed fasteners.
✓ Flashing & penetrations
We check flashing at chimneys, vents, valleys, and skylights — one of the most common leak sources.
✓ Gutters & downspouts
We check attachment, slope, and whether downspouts carry water well away from the foundation.
✓ Structure & decking
We look for sagging or deflection and note visible decking concerns from the attic.
✓ Attic ventilation
We assess ridge/soffit ventilation and airflow, which affect roof life and ice-dam risk.
✓ Leak evidence
We look for ceiling stains and attic moisture that point to active or past leaks.
Common problems we find
✓ Hail & wind damage
Extremely common on the Front Range — bruising, granule loss, and lifted or missing shingles.
✓ End-of-life shingles
Brittle, curling, or balding shingles on a roof near the end of its service life.
✓ Failed flashing
Cracked, rusted, or missing flashing at penetrations — a top reason roofs leak.
✓ Gutter problems
Clogged, sagging, or disconnected gutters that dump water right at the foundation.
✓ Ice dams
Backed-up meltwater from poor attic insulation/ventilation, forcing water under shingles.
✓ Improper repairs
Patchwork fixes, sealant over real problems, or too many shingle layers.
What you can maintain yourself
✓ Clean gutters twice a year
Spring and fall, and confirm downspouts extend 4–6 feet from the foundation.
✓ Look after storms
From the ground, scan for damaged or missing shingles after hail and wind.
✓ Trim overhanging branches
Keep limbs off the roof to reduce abrasion, debris, and pests.
✓ Insulate and ventilate the attic
The best defense against ice dams is a cold, well-ventilated roof deck.
✓ Act on stains fast
A small ceiling stain now is a cheap fix; ignored, it becomes a structural one.
✓ Get a pro eval when due
Have the roof professionally evaluated as it nears ~20 years or after major hail.
Roofs in hail country
The Front Range is one of the most hail-hammered regions in the country — it shapes everything about roofs here.
✓ Hail sets the roof’s clock
Statistically, Front Range roofs are replaced by storms more often than by old age. That’s why roof “age” matters less than the date of the last major hail event in the neighborhood — we ask about both.
✓ Impact-rated shingles pay off
Class 4 impact-resistant shingles often earn a meaningful insurance discount here and survive the hail that totals standard architectural shingles. If you’re replacing anyway, it’s usually worth the upgrade.
✓ Snow load & ice dams
Foothills roofs carry real snow. Ice dams form where attic heat melts the snowpack from below — the fix is almost always more attic insulation and ventilation, not more heat cable.
✓ Intense UV at altitude
A mile closer to the sun ages shingles faster: expect more granule loss and brittleness at a given age than the same roof at sea level. South- and west-facing slopes go first.
Common questions
How long does a roof last in Colorado?
Standard architectural shingles are rated 25–30 years, but on the Front Range hail usually decides first — many roofs are storm-replaced at 10–15 years. High-altitude UV also ages the sun-facing slopes faster. Treat 20+ years as end-of-life for insurance and budgeting purposes regardless of how it looks from the street.
How can I tell if my roof has hail damage?
From the ground, look for dented gutters, downspouts, and vents, granules piling in gutter outlets, and shingles with dark “bruise” spots. Real assessment happens on the roof, and insurers have inspection deadlines after a storm — if your area took hail, get a professional evaluation promptly even if nothing is leaking yet.
What causes ice dams and how do I stop them?
Heat escaping into the attic melts the underside of the snowpack; the meltwater refreezes at the cold eaves and backs up under the shingles. The durable fix is air-sealing the attic floor, adding insulation, and keeping soffit/ridge ventilation clear. Heat cable treats the symptom — fine as a stopgap, not a solution.
Do I really need to clean gutters twice a year?
On the Front Range, yes — spring for winter debris and fall after leaf drop. Clogged gutters overflow at the foundation, which is how a $150 cleaning becomes a basement-water problem. While you’re at it, confirm downspouts discharge 4–6 feet from the house. In pine country, add a mid-summer needle check.
Can a roof have too many shingle layers?
Two layers is the common maximum, and even that costs you: the second layer hides deck problems, traps heat, adds weight, and shortens the top layer’s life. When we find a layover, we note that the next replacement includes a full tear-off — which is worth pricing into your plans.
This guide is for general education. It reflects what we look for during a home inspection, not a substitute for a licensed professional. If you have a specific concern, please contact a licensed roofer — and of course, we’re always happy to take a look during an inspection.
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A spring-through-winter checklist tuned for Front Range homes.
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Read →Plumbing
Plumbing issues are some of the most common — and most expensive — problems we find. Here’s what we actually look at during an inspection, what tends to go wrong, and what you can stay ahead of yourself.
Read →Concerned about your roof & gutters?
We’ll give your home a thorough, plain-English inspection and flag anything worth a closer look.